The Discovery of the Hudson River

THE first of September [1609], fair weather, the wind variable between east and south; we steered away north northwest. At noon we found our height to be 39 degrees, 3 minutes….

The second, in the morning, close weather, the wind at south in the morning; from twelve until two of the clock we steered north north-west, and had sounding one and twenty fathoms; and in running one glass we had but sixteen fathoms, then seventeen, and so shoaler and shoaler until it came to twelve fathoms. We saw a great fire, but could not see the land; then we came to ten fathoms, whereupon we brought our tacks aboard, and stood to the eastward east south-east, four glasses. Then the sun arose, and we steered away north again, and saw the land from the west by north to the north-west by north, all like broken islands, and our soundings were eleven and ten fathoms. Then we loft in for the shore, and fair by the shore we had seven fathoms. The course along the land we found to be north-east by north. From the land which we had first sight of, until we came to a great lake of water, as we could judge it to be, being drowned land, which made it to rise like islands, which was in length ten leagues. The mouth of that land has many shoals, and the sea breaks on them as it is cast out of the mouth of it. And from that lake or bay the land lies north by east, and we had a great stream out of the bay; and from thence our sounding was ten fathoms two leagues from the land. At five of the clock we anchored, being little wind, and rode in eight fathoms water; the night was fair. This night I found the land to hall the compass 8 degrees. For to the northward off us we saw high hills. For the day before we found not above 2 degrees of variation. This is a very good land to fall with, and a pleasant land to see.

The third, the morning misty, until ten of the clock; then it cleared, and the wind came to the south south-east, so we weighed and stood to the northward. The land is very pleasant and high, and bold to fall withal. At three of the clock in the afternoon, we came to three great rivers. So we stood along to the northermost, thinking to have gone into it, but we found it to have a very shoal bar before it, for we had but ten foot water….

The fourth, in the morning, as soon as the day was light, we saw that it was good riding farther up. So we sent our boat to sound, and found that it was a very good harbor, and four and five fathoms, two cables length from the shore. Then we weighed and went in with our ship….

The fifth, in the morning, as soon as the day was light, the wind ceased and the flood came. So we heaved off our ship again into five fathoms of water, and sent our boat to sound the bay, and we found that there was three fathoms hard by the south shore. Our men went on land there, and saw great store of men, women, and children, who gave them tobacco at their coming on land….

The sixth, in the morning, was fair weather, and our master sent John Colman, with four other men in our boat, over to the north-side to sound the other river, being four leagues from us. They found by the way shoal water, two fathoms; but at the north of the river eighteen, and twenty fathoms, and very good riding for ships; and a narrow river to the westward, between two islands. The lands, they told us, were as pleasant with grass and flowers and goodly trees as ever they had seen, and very sweet smells came from them. So they went in two leagues and saw an open sea, and returned; and as they came back, they were set upon by two canoes, the one having twelve, the other fourteen men. The night came on, and it began to rain, so that their match went out; and they had one man slain in the fight, which was an Englishman, named John Colman, with an arrow shot into his throat, and two more hurt. It grew so dark that they could not find the ship that night, but labored to and fro on their oars….

The eleventh was fair and very hot weather. At one of the clock in the afternoon we weighed and went into the river, the wind at south south-west, little wind. Our soundings were seven, six, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten, twelve, thirteen, and fourteen fathoms. Then it shoaled again, and came to five fathoms. Then we anchored, and saw that it was a very good harbor for all winds, and rode all night. The people of the country came aboard of us, making show of love, and gave us tobacco and Indian wheat, and departed for that night; but we durst not trust them.

The twelfth, very fair and hot. In the afternoon, at two of the clock, we weighed, the wind being variable between the north and the north-west. So we turned into the river two leagues and anchored….

The thirteenth, fair weather, the wind northerly. At seven of the clock in the morning, as the flood came we weighed, and turned four miles into the river. The tide being done we anchored. Then there came four canoes aboard: but we suffered none of them to come into our ship….

The fourteenth, in the morning, being very fair weather, the wind south-east, we sailed up the river twelve leagues, and had five fathoms, and five fathoms and a quarter less; and came to a strait between two points, and had eight, nine, and ten fathoms; and it trended north-east by north, one league: and we had twelve, thirteen, and fourteen fathoms. The river is a mile broad: there is very high land on both sides. Then we went up northwest, a league and an half deep water. Then northeast by north, five miles; then north-west by north, two leagues, and anchored. The land grew very high and mountainous. The river is full of fish.

The fifteenth, in the morning, was misty, until the sun arose: then it cleared. So we weighed with the wind at south, and ran up into the river twenty leagues, passing by high mountains….

The twentieth, in the morning, was fair weather. Our master’s mate with four men more went up with our boat to sound the river, and found two leagues above us but two fathoms water, and the channel very narrow; and above that place, seven or eight fathoms. Toward night they returned: and we rode still all night. The one and twentieth was fair weather, and the wind all southerly: we determined yet once more to go farther up into the river, to try what depth and breadth it did bear; but much people resorted aboard, so we went not this day. Our carpenter went on land, and made a fore-yard. And our master and his mate determined to try some of the chief men of the country, whether they had any treachery in them. So they took them down into the cabin, and gave them so much wine and aqua vitae, that they were all merry: and one of them had his wife with him, which sat so modestly, as any of our country women would do in a strange place. In the end one of them was drunk, which had been aboard of our ship all the time that we had been there: and that was strange to them; for they could not tell how to take it. The canoes and folk went all on shore: but some of them came again, and brought straps of beads: some had six, seven, eight, nine, ten; and gave him. So he slept all night quietly.

The two and twentieth was fair weather: in the morning our master’s mate and four more of the company went up with our boat to sound the river higher up…. This night, at ten of the clock, our boat returned in a shower of rain from sounding of the river; and found it to be at an end for shipping to go in. For they had been up eight or nine leagues, and found but seven foot water, and inconstant soundings.

The three and twentieth, fair weather. At twelve of the clock we weighed, and went down two leagues to a shoal that had two channels, one on the one side, and another on the other, and had little wind, whereby the tide laid us upon it. So there we sat on ground the space of an hour till the flood came. Then we had a little gale of wind at the west. So we got our ship into deep water, and rode all night very well.

The four and twentieth was fair weather: the wind at the north-west, we weighed, and went down the river seven or eight leagues; and at half ebb we came on ground on a bank of oze in the middle of the river, and sat there till the flood. Then we went on land, and gathered good store of chestnuts. At ten of the clock we came off into deep water, and anchored….

The six and twentieth was fair weather, and the wind at south a stiff gale; we rode still. In the morning our carpenter went on land, with our master’s mate and four more of our company, to cut wood. This morning, two canoes came up the river from the place where we first found loving people, and in one of them was the old man that had laid aboard of us at the other place. He brought another old man with him, which brought more straps of beads and gave them to our master, and showed him all the country thereabout as though it were at his command. So he made the two old men dine with him, and the old man’s wife: for they brought two old women, and two young maidens of the age of sixteen or seventeen years with them, who behaved themselves very modestly. Our master gave one of the old men a knife, and they gave him and us tobacco. And at one of the clock they departed down the river, making signs that we should come down to them; for we were within two leagues of the place where they dwelt….

The first of October, fair weather, the wind variable between the west and the north. In the morning we weighed at seven of the clock with the ebb, and got down below the mountains, which was seven leagues. Then it fell calm and the flood was come, and we anchored at twelve of the clock. The people of the mountains came aboard us, wondering at our ship and weapons….

The second, fair weather. At break of day we weighed, the wind being at north-west, and got down seven leagues; then the flood was come strong, so we anchored. Then came one of the savages that swam away from us at our going up the river with many others, thinking to betray us. But we perceived their intent, and suffered none of them to enter our ship….

The fifth was fair weather, and the wind variable between the north and the east. We held on our course south-east by east….

We continued our course toward England, without seeing any land by the way, all the rest of this month of October: and on the seventh day of November, stilo novo, being Saturday, by the grace of God we safely arrived in the range of Dartmouth, in Devonshire, in the year 1609.