CHAPTER IX

Turkey and the Turks

1

49.

A Turkish Bath

2

I won’t trouble you with a relation of our tedious journey; but I must not omit what I saw remarkable at Sofia,3 one of the most beautiful towns in the Turkish empire, and famous for its hot baths, that are resorted to both for diversion and health. I. stopped here one day on purpose to see them; and designing to go incognita, I hired a Turkish coach. . . .

In one of these covered wagons, I went to the bagnio about ten o’clock. It was already full of women. It is built of stone, in the shape of a dome, withno windows but in the roof, which gives light enough. There were five of these domes joined together, the outermost being less than the rest, and serving only as a hall, where the portress stood at the door. Ladies of quality generally give this woman the value of a crown or ten shillings; and I did not forget that ceremony. The next room is a very large one paved with marble, and all round it are two raised sofas of marble, one above another. There were four fountains of cold water in this room, falling first into marble basins, and then running on the floor in little channels made for that purpose, which carried the streams into the next room, something less than this, with the same sort of marble sofas, but so hot with steams of sulphur proceeding from the baths joining to it, it was impossible to stay there with one’s clothes on. The two other domes were the hot baths, one of which had cocks of cold water turning into it, to temper it to what degree of warmth the bathers please to have.

I was in my traveling habit, which is a riding dress, and certainly appeared very extraordinary to them. Yet there was not one of them that showed the least surprise or impertinent curiosity, but received me with all the obliging civility possible. I know no European court where the ladies would have behaved themselves in so polite a manner to a stranger. I believe, upon the whole, there were two hundred women, and yet none of those disdainful smiles, or satiric whispers, that never fail in our assemblies when anybody appears that is not dressed exactly in the fashion. . . . The first sofas were covered with cushions and rich carpets, on which sat the ladies; and on the second, their slaves behind them, but without any distinction of rank by their dress. . . . In short, the bagnio is the women’s coffeehouse, where all the news of the town is told, scandal invented, etc. They generally take this diversion once a week and stay there at least four or five hours, without getting cold by immediately coming out of the hot bath into the cold room, which was very surprising to me.

1 . 5 vols. 6th edition. London, 1817.

2 Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, , vol. ii, pp. 153–159.

3 Now the capital of Bulgaria.